Zvartnots Cathedral

On Closer Examination

Crossroads - the word is overused but how more appropriately would you name the place where roads have crossed and still do so, both actually and metaphorically. This has been the case with Armenian history, culture and people. This country has been inhabited since the early Stone Age. It was between Assyria and Hittia, Persia and Rome, the Byzantine Empire and the Baghdad Caliphate, the Russian and the Ottoman Empires. Armenia is on the crossroads between Asia and Europe. Its geographically advantageous and strategically valued location between the great powers of the world made Armenia a prized country - a bridge between the Eastern and Western civilizations.

Introduction

Armenia has been the stage for some of the principal political and religious events for the past 4 thousand years.

From the time of Assyria and Babylon, this ancient land has experienced numerous invasions from the legions of Alexander of Macedonia to those of the Roman Empire and the hordes of Genghis-Kahn and Tamberlane. Although a mere dot on the map of the world, Armenia was a powerful kingdom at one time and at the zenith of its territorial expansion, stretched from the Black Sea to the Caspian Sea and from the Mediterranean to Lake Urmia in what is now Iran. It held control of some of the main branches in the Middle East of the Great Silk Road. One of its three principal branches ran along the Ararat Valley through the territory of modern Armenia. The close economic ties with neighboring countries and East - West trade routes across the Armenian plateau favoured the development of the country's economy, trade, commerce and culture. The high level of Armenia put it on a par with the civilizations of the ancient world. The political boundaries of the country have been extremely elastic - altered by war, occupation and dismemberment. Numerous migrations into the land, invasions and conquests have left their genetic, linguistic and cultural imprint on the people. Still, the Armenian nation has tenaciously preserved its national and cultural identity, although repeatedly invaded and conquered.

The conversion of King Trdat by St. Gregory the Illuminator resulted in Armenia becoming the first country in the world to accept Christianity as the state religion, more than a decade before Constantine made it the official religion of the Roman Empire. The evangelization of the country resulted in the development of the first Armenian written language and of national literature. The Armenian language is a member of the Indo-European group of languages. The Armenian alphabet, invented at the beginning of the fifth century, is remarkably well suited to the phonetic values of the language and has undergone virtually no alteration in form or structure since its creation.

Through the centuries, Armenia has managed to preserve a wealth of evidence of the evolution of humankind. the country is rightly called an open-air geological and archaeological museum, dating back to the dawn of recorded history. Monuments of the Paleolithic and Neolithic ages, as well as ancient settlements have been found in various parts of the country. As one of the oldest Christian countries, it boasts the densest concentration of monuments of early Christianity. In the arts, Armenians have exhibited their greatest originality in architecture, most notably in the fields of military and religious architecture. Preserved here are architectural monuments, valuable in studying the origins of the development of world architecture. The high artistic merits distinguishing these monuments, their rare beauty and distinctiveness have attracted the attention of researchers from all over the world.

A visit to Armenia often develops into a search for the essence of the country and soon becomes a search for a better knowledge of oneself. When you visit Armenia, take the occasion to stop and listen attentively to your inner rhythm. Attune it to the rhythm of the life pulsing through "the country of a found and a lost Eden". Set your pace to its pace - stroll through the bustling avenues of major cities, walk along the quaint streets of provincial towns. Relax on the sun-warmed steps of a hilltop chapel. Feast on the authentic ceremony of a meal. Enjoy a leisurely conversation in a mountain hamlet - let the flow of the life of the country embrace you. Sharpen your senses and feel Armenia. It can be sipped with coffee at a cozy sidewalk cafe or gulped with cold water on a hot day.

You have to be really enterprising and sturdy to see and enjoy all of these: volcanic peaks, crystal clear lakes, forests teeming with wildlife, innumerable hot and cold mineral springs, guarded by prehistoric rock-carved dragons, inimitable geological structures and hurtling waterfalls, and the pristine waters of Lake Sevan. A dusty road stops suddenly at a Silk Road caravan inn; grim caves hide ancient settlements; time stands still in river canyons while listening to stone "organs". Churches, castles and temples rise in their full and ancient glory, intricately carved stone crosses stand at every bend of the road, silent reminders of a stormy and eventful past.

Explore the galaxies with the largest telescope in Europe and compare it with our astral observatory from 2400 BCE. Listen carefully in the enveloping silence and hear the lonely singing of a boy tending cattle by a stream, women separating wheat from the chaff in the summer breeze or fishermen gathering their catch just as they did millennia ago.

And everywhere - stone.

Stone is the Meaning and Explanation: Armenia stands on stone, is built of stone and the character of Armenians is shaped by thousands of years of sheer hard work and need to shape rock into a useful and graceful substance. It is a rigorous and beautiful land, inhabited by a determined and courageous, warm and gracious people, rewarding the adventurous soul with unforgettable personal experiences. Therein lies her wealth and therein lies the most enthralling discovery for travelers. Armenia is a place where nature lives and history comes to life. And it is a country that rivals all others for the hospitality and friendship it offers visitors. Therein lies her beauty, cherished by natives and foreigners alike.

Location

Armenia is situated in the eastern part of Armenian Plateau bounded north by the Republic of Georgia, east by Azerbaijan Republic, south by Islamic Republic of Iran and west by Turkey.

The southern region of Zangezur is a rough highland with picturesque canyons and valleys, ideal for hikers and wildlife fans. The southernmost area of the country is considered to be Sub-Tropical: while ridges are still receiving last Winter snowfall, in Meghri fruit-trees are in full bloom, and the first vegetables of the season are being picked.

Aragats Mount area, plains of Ashotsk and surroundings of Lake Sevan, the second freshwater highland lake in the world (correspondingly Aragatsotn, Shirak and Gegharkunik provinces) in winter are the most appropriate survival course for those who would like to taste the breathtaking wind chill (20-30 below 0C) before assaulting the North Pole.

The Northeast is land of mounts and forests with fascinating sights equally during winters, springs, summers and autumns - shortly it's an Alpine region with resembling features and opportunities for tourists.

The History Main Events

2104 BC

Armenian state established by Hayk Patriarch in the vicinity of Lake Van

XVII BC

Hayasa union of tribes (from Hittites written sources) on Northwest of Armenian Highland

XIV-XI BC

Kingdom of Nairi
Iron production discovered. Metsamor - iron factory of BC
Kingdom of Urartu (Ararat) established by Aram

782 BC

Fortress of Erebuni (Happy Site) founded

585 BC

Urartu collapsed by Median invasion

595 BC

Yervanduny Dynasty established by Paruyr Skayordy
Armenia included in Akhemenid Empire of Ancient Iran as satrapy.

189 BC

Almost entire Armenian Plateau included in a kingdom by Artashes I

94-84 BC

The kingdom expanded by Tigran II the Great to Kilikia and Palestine (Armenia from Caspian sea to Mediterranean sea).

69-6 BC

Period of wars with Rome

63 AD

Arshakuny Dynasty established by Trdat I (63-428 AD)

301

Christianity adopted as State Religion

384

Principles of Armenian Church proclaimed at II Universal Nikean Council (unchanged since then)

387

Armenia divided between Sassanid Persia and Roman Empire

405

Armenian alphabet shaped by Mesrop Mashtots

IV-V AD

"Golden Age" of Armenian literature

451

Battle of Avarayr in defense of Christianity

640

Arab invasion on Armenia

VIII AD

University founded at monastery of Tatev

VI-IX

Pavlikian and Tondrakian heresies spread over Armenia and Asia Minor.

885

Bagratuny Dynasty established by Ashot I (885-1045 AD)

1021

Byzantine invasion on Armenia

1048

The first wave of Seljuk Turks on Armenian Highland

1080

Armenian Kingdom of Kilikia (Armenia Minor) established by Ruben

1375

Egyptian Sultanate invasion on Kilikia, fall of Armenian kingdom

1512

First book printed in Armenian

1555

Armenia divided by Sefevide Persia and Ottoman Empire

1727

Armenian princedoms of Karabakh repel Ottoman aggression

1813

By Giulystan Treaty princedoms of Karabakh proceed under Russian rule

1828

Eastern Armenia (left from Araks River) included in Russian Empire

1877-1878

Russian-Turkish war. Kars province included in Russian Empire

July 1878

Armenian problem discussed at Berlin Congress

1885-1890

Ramkavar-Azatakan, Hnchak and Dashnakcutiun political parties founded

1895-1896

Over 400.000 Armenians massacred in Ottoman Empire

April 24, 1915

Genocide of Armenians in Western Armenia begun

May 28, 1918

Independence of the Republic of Armenia declared

1919

State University established

November 1920

Republic of Armenia occupied by Bolsheviks

February 1921

People's uprising against Bolshevik oppression

1921-1936

Armenia, Azerbaijan and Georgia included in Trans-Caucasian Soviet Federative Socialist Republic of the USSR

1923

Nakhichevan and Karabakh provinces of Armenia transfered to Soviet Azerbaijan by bolsheviks

1936

New Constitution adopted. Armenian Soviet Socialist Republic directly included in Soviet

1933-1961

Industrialization of Armenian SSR

1978

Metsamor nuclear power plant launched

February 1988

Referendum in Mountainous Karabakh autonomous region on secession from Azerbaijani SSR. Massacres of Armenians in Azerbaijan

1991 - May 1994

Full-scale armed conflict in Mountainous Karabakh

21.10.1991

Independence of the Republic of Armenia proclaimed

1992

Membership to the Commonwealth of Independent States

1999

First Pan-Armenian Games

2001

1700 Anniversary of adoption of Christianity as state religion.

2005

1600 Anniversary of shaping of the Armenian alphabet.

2015

100 Anniversary of Genocide of Armenians

Religion

Armenian Church is an independent, self-governing, autocephalous church - it has its own head, the Catholicos, not subordinate to the hierarchies of other churches. The origin of Armenian Church dates back to the period of apostolic evangelization. Armenian Church is founded by two of Christ's disciples - the Apostles Thaddeus and Bartholomew. For this reason it is called Armenian Apostolic Church.

The story goes, that Armenian king Abgar, reigning in Edessia, sends a letter to Christ, asking Him to go to Edessia to treat his incurable disease and abide in Edessia free from Hebrew oppression. Christ reply replies him, saying He wouldn't go, but "Blessed is he, who has faith in me not seeing me! As soon as I fulfill my Father's will, I will send my pupils to your country to cure both you and all your people". After Christ's Resurrection Apostle Thaddeus comes to Edessia, cures king Abgar, and, christening him and his people, becomes the bishop of Edessia. It is Apostle Thaddeus, to whom bringing to Armenia of St. Geghard (the spearhead, with which the Roman soldier lanced Christ) is inscribed. Curing the king, Thaddeus comes to Armenia, where Sanatruk reigned those days, and starts preaching throughout the country. He brings many people to faith, Sanatruk's daughter, Sandukht among them. Sanatruk starts oppressions against the faithful, Sandukht and all the faithful die. Thaddeus passes too.

The Apostle Bartholomew preaches in various strata, for the members of the Royal Family too. But as a result of the oppressions, he, Sanatruk's sister Voguhi, and many of the king's servitors die.

The full and official conversion of Armenians to Christianity was executed in 301 by St.Grigor the Enlightener in the times of Tiridates III. In 287 with support of Roman army Tiridates comes to Armenia to regain the throne of his ancestors. Grigor joins Tiridates, becoming one of his devoted comrade-in-arms. Regaining the throne, Tiridates orders Grigor to worship idols, Grigor refuses, as he has Christian faith. Tiridates tries to get Grigor do his will, but the latter keeps steady in his faith. This time Tiridates is informed, that Grigor is the son to Anak, who killed Tiridates's father, Khosrov. Learning this, Tiridates orders to throw Grigor into a deep pit (Khor Virap). Grigor, staying in the pit full of snakes and scorpions for 13-14 years, survived due to his prayers and deep faith.

Escaping oppressions of Roman emperor Diokletianus, a group of faithful virgins, beautiful Hripsimeh among them, run to Armenia, finding abode in Vagharshapat. Diokletianus sends a letter to Tiridates, asking him to find Hripsime and return her back. Soon Hripsime is brought to Tiridates. The king, struck with her beauty, asks her to marry him, but Hripsime, devoted to her faith, refuses his offer. By the kings order the servants kill Hripsime and all the virgins. Because of Hripsime's loss Tiridates, undergoing terrible emotional disturbance, gets a strange unknown disease. According to historian Agatangeghos's words, he "flew into rage, began to eat himself, and getting out of human shape, as the Babylonian king Nabuchodonosor (Nebuchadnezzar), in the shape of wild swine, like one of them went to live with them". Tiridates's sister, Khosrovidukht, sees a dream, that Grigor, who is in the deep pit, could cure the king. Nobody believes this dream, as no human being could survive in the pit for so many years, but people are sent to the pit, and Grigor is taken out and brought to Vagharshapat. The Armenian king with entire Royal House comes before Grigor and asks for remittal. After a five-day fasting (called Arajavorats Fast and kept by Armenian Church to our days) he preaches New and Old Testament for sixty days. Then Grigor goes around the country, destroying Armenian Pagan temples, in the places of which Christian Churches rise later. Inspired by the vision of the Only Begotten Son, Christ, descending to the town of Vagharshapat with a golden hammer in hand and showing the site of the first Christian church to St.Grigor the Enlightener, the latter founds in 301 AD the present-day Mother Church, the Holly Echmiatsin, which has since become the hierarchical center of Armenian Church.

In 302 Grigor the Enlightener was proclaimed the first Patriarch and Catholicos of all Armenians and later was sainted.

The spreading of Christianity faced obstacles, as Armenians did not have their own alphabet, and all the pious literature was in Greek and Assyrian, which made understanding of religion difficult for commonality. To overcome this problem, Mesrob Mashtots, a scientist, soldier and monk, invented Armenian alphabet in 405 with support of Catholicos Sahak Partev and King Vramshapuh. The first phrase, written by letters of Armenian alphabet, was "To learn wisdom and exhortation, to understand sayings reason", taken from "Book of proverbs of Solomon". Soon Sahak and Mesrop realised translation of the Bible, which for its accuracy, briefness and expressiveness received the name of "the queen of translations". Besides this, important works by Fathers of Church were translated.

Armenian Church teaches that Christ became a real and perfect Man in body, mind, and soul, without ever ceasing to be God. Christ is one person, completely human and completely divine. For Armenian Church, the nature of Christ, the God incarnate is beyond human understanding, and this potentially contradictory statement is a divine mystery.

Of Seven Ecumenical Councils Armenian Church has accepted decisions of the first three (Nicaea in 325, Constantinople in 381, Ephesus in 431), rejected the fourth and pronounced no relation to last three. Armenian Church accepts the infallibility of the Church in the Ecumenical Councils.

In 2001 all the Christian World together with Armenia celebrated 1700-th Anniversary of Adoption of Christianity in Armenia as a State Religion.

Culture

Armenia, having passed a complex and interesting way of cultural development through long centuries of persistent struggle against the powerful states of the West and the East, just in the struggle created its bright, original spiritual and material culture.

Let's start our brief review from culture of Armenian people of pre-Christian period. Remarks by antique authors, diplomatic correspondence of Egyptian pharaohs and local kings, results of archeological excavations (wooden vehicles, bronze weapon, golden jewellery), Armenian legends of later period - it's on this basis that an idea on cultural life of Armenian people of II-I millennia BC appeared. Silent witnesses of mightiness of Urartu - fortresses-cities of Erebuni and Teyshebaini, cuneiform writing, murals of the end VIII century BC - certifying to the beginning of national painting, a great number of deities testifying to rich Urartian mythology reached us.

Huge influence on the further development of the Armenian culture rendered the penetration of Hellenism, widely spread in Armenia in times of Tigran the Great. Later Roman influence was added to the Hellenian.

Literary life experienced huge growth. Here there already existed folk poetry, the invaluable samples of which "father of Armenian historiography" Movses Khorenatsi preserved in his works, mentioning songs and legends, sung by people, ascending to antiquity. The most ancient of the songs, given by him, is a fragment about Vahagn's (Vahagn was a god of war. He had a beard of flame, hair of fire, and his eyes were suns) birth, dating back to the pagan period:

Armenian culture had been developping by 301 under western (Hellenism and Rome) and eastern (Parthenon) influences, which, only supplemented and enriched bright national culture. Late autumn of pagan epoch turned to flaming spring of Christian culture when in 301 Trdat III proclaimed Christianity the State Religion of Armenia. This step demanded salvation of the problem of rooming a big number of faithful in Christian temples, and basilica ("a Royal House" in Greek) the best way satisfied this need. In VI-VII centuries a new page of the Armenian architecture opened - cross-dome composition of temple architecture appeared. As another bright phenomenon of art culture from Middle Ages to our days Khachkars appear for us.

Concern about the fate of Christianity in Armenia, understanding of conditions of political life brought the scientist, soldier and monk Mesrob Mashtots to the idea of creation of Armenian alphabet and national writing in 405 AD, which was the next contribution to the development of national culture. He received a significant support from Catholicos Sahak Partev and the king Vramshapuh. The first phrase, written by letters of Armenian alphabet, was "To learn wisdom and exhortation, to understand sayings reason", taken from "Book of proverbs of Solomon". Schools with education in native language were soon opened. Soon Sahak and Mesrop realised translation of the Bible, which for its accuracy, briefness and expressiveness has got the name of "the queen of translations". Armenian translations of works mainly from Greek and Syrian, which have not been kept in originals, reached us, namely: "Apology" by Aristides the Athenian, "Chronicle" by Eusevius the Caesarian, works by Ireneus, Ephrem the Syrian, John Chrysostom (Goldmouth) and many others.

Works by Armenian historians from Pavstos Buzand, Lazar Parpetsi to Michael Chamchyan kept the string of time indissoluble, being a valuable source for studying history of Armenia, Byzantine Empire, Georgia, Persia etc. Works in mathematics, medicine, philosophy, geography, astronomy and other sciences by Ananiya Shirakatsi, Grigor Magistros, Mkhitar Heratsi, David Anhaght, Amirdovlat Amasiatsi, served as stimulus for blossom of spiritual life of Armenia. In Middle Ages the code of laws "Lawbook" by Mkhitar Gosh was admitted in Armenia. A code of the same type was composed in XIII in the Kingdom of Kilikia by Smbat Sparapet, who enriched the work by Gosh with codes of the Byzantine and Roman law.

Since V c. medicine has been developing in Armenia. Spacious works on medicine appeared, namely, "The Consolation in Fevers" (1184), which investigates reasons, essence and therapy of all diseases, accompanied with fevers, by doctor, astronomer Mkhitar Heraci; and works by theorist of medicine Amirdovlat Amasiatsi "The Use of Medicine", "Unnecessary for Ignoramus", "Materia Medica". Heratsi and Amirdovlat in their works besides other medical treatments "appointed" gusans' songs in case of feverish diseases on ground of emotional stress with features of oppression of mind. In XVIII century national ashugh (singer) Sayat-Nova (?-1795) in a song says about musical instrument qyamancha: "you give a happy brow to all, with you the sick is well again". Doesn't this speak for advantages of Armenian music, with its rich rhythmic and melody? Since the end of XVII c. the art of Armenian ashughs has developed. Sacred music also developed, growing into fine works for chorus, sharakans. Among musical instruments of early Middle Age there were prototypes for: string ones - tavigh, qnar, pandir, bambir; wind - awagpog, sring; pulsatile - tmbuk. The system of notes - k h a z e s, allowing to strictly fix a melody, was invented in IX century and developed in XI. In the beginning of XIX century a new, elaborated Armenian note system was created and widely used in Armenian music up to the beginning of XX century. It was used in recording national songs by Komitas, a great and tragic phenomenon of Armenian national culture, a person of deep intellectuality, and fundamental knowledge, acquired in Echmiatsin academy, in conservatoire and university of Berlin. Due to the horrors of genocide the composer's spirit was broken, he lost his sense and since 1916 up 1935 has not created any other work. His "The ethnographic collection" (255 records) is a rich anthology of Armenian country songs; his copy books contain more than 3000 melodies; His liturgy "Patarag", despite incompleteness, is an invaluable pearl of national culture. In musical world the following Armenian composers occupy an honorable place: A.Spendiaryan - the founder of national symphonic music, A.Khachaturyan - ballets «Gayane», «Spartak», A. Tigranyan - opera «Anush», Chukhajyan - the first Armenian opera «Arshak II», etc.

In the "book" on national culture painting appears as a separate poem. Murals of Urartian period have already been mentioned above. As to the mural of Middle Ages, its feature was in dabbing a thin layer of couch of a mix of daubing and sand on smooth, finely hatched ashlar. The fragility of this method explains almost full loss of large panels of mural in temples. Though some fragments can still be seen in the monastery of Lmbat (Christ's legs, the tail of clothes with bodies of flame at the background, four-winged Seraphs with tragic expression and compressed lips); in the monastery of Tatev (Saints; Prophets, holding scrolls with Armenian text; scenes of Christmas, Judgement Day).

The creative work of painters' of VI c. has given life to wonderful samples of a miniature. Almost since the times of creation of Armenian alphabet for safety and decoration of manuscripts gold and silver bindings were produced (the most probable epoch of use of gold and silver by inhabitants of the Armenian Plateau - II millennium AD. Mines gold and silver of the Armenian mountains are mentioned in work by Strabon and Prokopius). Illustrated hand-written Bibles, the Gospels, Psalters of those times are kept to this day in various collections in Yerevan, USA, the British museum, national library of Paris, Armenian Catholic monastery on the island of St. Lazarus in Venice. As a material for manuscripts of early period Parchment was used. Later paper appeared. There existed the prototype of fountain pen, the feather of which received ink from a hollow ball fixed on the stem. Manuscripts, kept for centuries in damp rooms of monasteries, in the most unexpected places, have kept original brightness and freshness due to enduring paints.

The following basic Armenian miniature schools (each having its oustanding painters) are distinguished: Kilikian (Toros Roslin), Gladzor (Avag), Tatev (Grigor Tatevatsi, philosopher, public artist and figure), Vaspourakan (Minas), Crimean, Artsakh-Utikyan. We should also mention Naghash Hovnatan, with whose name the murals of Echmiadzin cathedral are connected, and with school of Hovnatan family - the origin of pictures XVII-XVIII c., decorating Echmiadzin.

The end of XIX c. - the beginning of XX c. is the period of creative work of such great artists, as: G.Bashindzhagjan - the landscape-painter whose works are penetrated by poetic feeling and are distinguished by romanticism and elation.

V. Surenjants - the founder of historical genre of Armenian painting. "The Trampled Relic" - a response to slaughter of Armenians in Turkey, barbarous destruction of people and his culture. Executed in the scale of cold silver tones, the cloth represents an interior of the crushed church - the plundered ark of church utensils, a killed monk, torn books.

H. Ayvazovsky - the great marine painter, whose creative works belongs to the world culture. Dreaminess, the beauty of color, skill to show the transparency of water, its mighty force, amazing spontaneity - that's the secret of charm of the artist's works. Besides sea subjects the master also represented Ararat and Ararat valley, Lake Sevan, portraits, bible themes, etc.

M. Saryan - the most significant figure in the Armenian fine arts of XX c., creator of portraits, still-lifes, landscapes, decorative panel, illustrative graphics, with the name of whom the foundation of modern national art school is connected.

Let's turn now our eyes to one of the most ancient crafts, mastered by Armenians - carpet loom. Cultivation of sheep, manufacture of woolen strings and fabrics, their dyeing are marked by many historians of ancient times.. Here are some of known Armenian dyes: red "vordan karmir", received from a worm cochineal, widespread in Ararat valley; green - from ochra; dark blue, lajvard, is described by Pliny the Elder as "armenium", etc. The most ancient ornaments, which don't have analogues in art of carpet producing are "vishapagorg" (dragon carpet). Later appear carpets with life tree, carpets with eagles, and, at last, with cross - the main ornament of Middle Ages of Armenia. Armenian carpets were always highly appreciated Walls and floors of a palace of the Arabian caliphs were covered with the Armenian carpets, the favourite wife of caliph Garun Ol' Rashid sat on "an Armenian carpet", all other wives - on "Armenian pillows". Djotto and Karavadjo, Rubens and Rembrandt wrote interiors with Armenian carpets.

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Discovery Tours

Join us in the adventure of revealing the legends of an ancient land - fascinating, unspoiled nature, innumerable historic monuments of Paganism and Christianity, a home of ancient civilization, hospitable people and respected traditions.

Birdwatching Tours

Diverse natural conditions results in unusually rich flora and fauna on a relatively small territory of the country. Up to the present over 350 bird species have been recorded in Armenia, of which over 240 species are breeding locally.

Off-Road Tours

Fasten your seatbelt and enjoy our Off-Road Tour through stunningly beautiful mountains. Immerse into aromatic forests of aspen and pine as we climb to wildflower-carpeted high alpine meadows with views that seem to go on forever.